BASIC OBEDIENCE

I recenlty graduated from a dog training program that took me almost a year with online classes and internship requirements. I learnt a lot, but it made me realize how simple training can be. A dog training class is great for socializing your dog. For this one reason, I recommend classes, because socialization is extrememly important as a puppy. However, Owners must understand that dog training classes do not train your dog, they simply teach the Owners how to train their dogs at home. The Trainer shows you methods and is there to answer questions when something doesn;t work. They can provide alternative methods or even help you see a deeper reason why your dog is not able to understand you. The important part of a training class is your time at home. Using the methods and lessons from class, you need to be dedicated to the training, consistently training your dog everyday.

If you wish to train your dog at home you can. Below are some recommendations for teaching your dog basic obedience cues. As stated below, there are four parts to every learning process. I'll explain the process using the "Focus Cue" but I will summarize the other cues to keep it short.

Focus

There are four stages to the learning process: acquisition, automation, generalization, and maintenance. Focus is an important base cue which teaches your dog to pay attention to you. The first stage is the acquisition stage and is explained by ABC as the “dog learning through shaping, prompting and reinforcements that a particular behavior is rewarding.” To teach your dog the focus cue with the clicker you can start with the dog in the heel position. To get the dog into the heel position you can present a baited hand to the dog and once they notice the treat you should curve your hand in an outward circle and loop the dog around to a heel position on your left side. This is a luring technique and is part of the acquisition stage. The trainer should hold the treat above the dogs nose to get their attention. The trainer needs to make sure that the treat is above the dogs nose so that they are looking up but not high enough so that it causes the dog to jump. Once the dog is focused on the baited hand, the trainer should move the hand inward fairly quickly up to their chin. Once the dog looks up and makes direct eye contact "click" and give the dog the treat. This is all part of the acquisition stage. Once the dog learns to anticipate the action that the trainer is looking for at least 90% of the time, you can move onto the Automation Phase.

Once the dog understands these steps on his own you can move into the automation phase. To introduce the “focus” cue the training should be done while the dog is on your left side about 75% of the time. A baited hand should be discreetly put behind t he trainers back. The trainer should say the dogs name and then focus. If the dog makes eye contact the trainer should click, give the release cue and give the treat to the dog. Wait at least a minute for the dog to give eye contact without repeating the cue, giving the dog a chance to absorb what is being asked of him. If the dog does not give eye contact at all, the trainer should go back to the Acquisition stage and continue luring the dog into a focus. During this phase the dog will begin to learn to give the desired behavior when they hear the cue. Toward the end of this stage the dog should sit 90% of the time when he is asked.

The next stage is the generalization phase where the dog must learn to perform the cue in different locations and with different people. The steps above should be followed in new areas and then with different people so that they learn to obey the cue at any time, anywhere and form anyone. Once the dog begins to respond to the cue 90% to 100% of the time in any location and with any person than he is in the maintenance stage.

The Maintenance Stage is where the dog is consistently performing a cue in any situation from 90% to 100% of the time. One thing to remember during any stage is that even with one mistake the dog should go back to kindergarten. This means to practice the cue aiding the dog a long again as if he were in the Acquisition stage to remind them what they are suppose to do. This should be done a few times before going back to the maintenance stage.

Sit

I use the lure method for a sit. With a highly enticing treat like cheese between my pointer finger and thumb, I allow the dog to smell the treat in my hand. Hold the treat right out in front of the dog but above the level of his head. I like to teach handle signals first so my sign for sit is the thumb pressed up against your other for fingers, all pointing up like an Italian talking about food. Slowly move the treat backwards. The dog should sit while following the treat with his eyes and head. If the dog sits, say “good” as soon as the bum touched the floor and then give the treat. Do not say “sit”. Don’t use the command until the dog sits on his own as soon as you present your hand signal. Then once the dog knows the hand signal, start to use the command. Now, since the dog already knows that the hand signal means sit, the dog will start to correspond the word to the action as well.

If the dog doesn’t sit when you lure for the first time be patient. Slowly, practice a couple times and never get frustrated. If your dog doesn’t follow after the first few times, take a break and try another day. Also, every time you see your dog in a sit position show him the hand signal, say "good boy" and treat. They will start to assocaite the signal with their action of sitting.

Down/Lay Down

I use the lure method for a down as well. Take a treat and put it in between your thumb and pointer, and hold your hand, palm down, with your fingers out straight and togther. First, bring your hand near your dogs nose so that they can smell the treat. Then, slowly bring your hand down to the ground. You are trying to lure their body to a donward position. At first, reaward any downward behavior even if they are not laying down. Say "good" and give the dog the treat. Most dogs will not go immediately into a down so it takes time. Plus, a laying position is vulnerable for a dog, so they may be hesitant. This motion with your hand is the hand signal to use for a "down".

You can also try to hold the treat near the ground betwen your dogs paws. Slowly move it out toward yourself so that your dog has to continue to extend their neck to reach the treat. Again, you are luring them into a laying position.

The third motion that I try is moving your hand in a slow circular movement. Start at your dogs nose and bring your hand off to the side in a mooon like shape and bring it down to the flow. The arc motion helps bring the dog down.

Depening on your dog, a "down" could be one of the hardest basic commands. Some dogs are uncomfortable or insecure. Be patient and try to lure them four or five times, a few times a day. Remember to reward the slight downward movement at first so that they know they are getting close. Once your dog actually lies down say "good" and reward heavily. Have treats ready and throw ten of them between his/her paws so that they know they did something good. "All these treats for laying down, I'm going to lay down more often!" Once your dog follows your hand signal, then start to say "down" to teach them the verbal cue.

Training Essentials

Crates/Kennels

Beds

Collars

Leashes/Harnesses

I strongly recommend a standard 4-6’ leash. Retractable are dangerous and are counterproductive if you are trying to teach loose leash walking. I buy the double loop leashes that have a second handle down at the dogs neck, in case you need a tighter hold of the dog.

Any harness is good for a strong large dog. The tension against the dogs neck is very dangerous and can even crush the trachea. For a harness, I recommend the Easy Walk from Gentle Leader. The leash connects to the harness at the chest, so if your dog pulls, it pulls his/her body to the side. The tension should reduce their pull and tension which is making it uncomfortable for the dog. However, for this harness to be fully effective it needs to be properly fitted. Either measure your dog as recommend before purchasing online or go to a local pet store and try them on your dog. Especially pitbulls with their broad chest, are difficult to size properly. Even if you purchase the correct size online, it still needs to be adjusted properly on the dog which is tricky. Visit Easy Walks website for instructions.

If you practice loose leash walking as I described under behavior problem with, I would recommend getting two harnesses. If you need to walk you dog quickly and do not have time to stop every time your dog pulls, purchase a regular padded harness that clips on the back. This way, your dog is still not in danger of crushing his/her trachea, and you will not undermine your loose leash walking training. The padded harness can be for the walks where you don’t mind your dog pulling. You dog can feel the difference in the harnesses and will learn that it is okay to pull in the padded harness but that he/she must not cause tension on the Gentle Leader Harness or the walk stops. Dogs learn quickly with consistency.